The basic steps of preparing and painting a model.
2. Clean your model.
As obvious as it sounds. Clean it! Resin is particularly prone to having mould release agent (a bit like WD40) on it and this will probably prevent any paint settling on it, particularly in recesses etc. Metal and plastic models should also be cleaned. Use normal soap or washing up liquid and an old toothbrush to clean thoroughly and then rinse with clear water and dry with a tea towel or kitchen roll.
3. Assemble the model (where appropriate).
Some models, particularly vehicles, will require two or more parts to be joined together. Choose an appropriate glue for the material and model. Follow any instructions included with the kit
4. Undercoat.
This involves painting the entire model in a coat of (normally) black, grey or white. Depending on the overall tone of your finished product. Undercoat provides a better grip for your base coat (colours) to adhere to.
5. Basecoat.
This is the actual painting bit! Here you choose which bits of a model to paint in which colours, for example a face and hands would be in an appropriate flesh colour or a tunic may be blue or brown. You could try painting the "inner" layers first, such as the skin and then the outer layers like clothes and then armour and finally accessories. Some models or stances may require a different approach, just go with what feels right for you. You should work towards having every part of a model fully covered in an appropriate colour base coat, staying within physical boundaries (not colouring over a helmet in flesh colour or visa versa).
Once this stage is finished, you've got your basic job done, some people leave it there, but generally speaking some simple improvements can be made.
5. Shading.
This is usually done with a wash of black or brown ink (or watered down paint) particularly in the recesses of a model. It will give the impression of depth in items of clothing or equipment. If an ink is used, just dip your brush into it, shake off any excess and dab the tip of the brush into a crevice (such as around the eyes or between joins in clothing) the ink should run freely into the seam and settle, giving the impression of shadow in the area. Shading can also be used over flat or raised areas to give a coloured shade to the base coat.
6. Dry brushing.
This is the opposite of shading. It is often used on items that you wish to appear metallic or shiny. Typically if (for example) a machine gun is painted black, you might drybrush steel or silver to make it appear scuffed. To dry brush dip, your (old) brush just a tip into your highlight colour and then wipe off most of the paint onto an old cloth or kitchen roll, until little paint remains. Then very lightly brush this thinly loaded brush across your objects raised areas, this should leave traces of your new colour over the basecoat
7. Highlighting.
A process similar to dry brushing, but more refined. Highlights would be used on a shiny item or an object that you wished to appear lit (internally or externally) for example the glimmer on a magical sword. Ideally use a wet brush to pick up a small amount of your highlight colour and then very slightly brush over the raised edge you wish to highlight, this should leave a subtle line along the edge, giving it a glow or highlight.
8. Varnish.
After all that (hard) work, you’re going to want to protect your model’s paintwork, especially so if they’re going to be used for gaming. Many brands of varnish are available, they tend to be in either a gloss or mat finish. Apply a varnish, thinly and evenly (just like your undercoat) all over every part of your model, once this has dried the paintwork will be significantly protected - but it still pays to be careful!
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/painting-weathering/painting-guide/painting-sequence/
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